Headliners from Annual Watches & Wonders Wristwatch Extravaganza

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

When the original Ulysse Nardin Freak watch first debuted in 2001, its never-before-seen approach to wrist-based time telling (no crown, the entire watch movement loaded up on a carousel arm that was also the minute hand, and more), qualified it as an outsider, objet d’art in the watch world. In the ensuing decades, as the Freak’s appearance has become more of an established and familiar wristwatch format, Ulysse Nardin has focused on leveraging the flexibility of the watch as much as its artfulness.

The new Freak S Nomad continues to push the watch’s creative boundaries within a decidedly futuristic oeuvre, but it uses the classic decoration technique of guilloche (fine, repetitive pattern engraving on a watch dial). The “twin-engine” oscillators on either side of the arm carrying the UN-251 movement inspire a picture of a kind of sci-fi glider coasting over the surface of the golden sands of a far-flung planet. On a lightweight 45mm titanium case topped with a carbon fiber layer between the case and black PVD-coated bezel, each of the limited-to-99 editions. ulysse-nardin.com

Rolex Platinum Perpetual 1908

Of course, esteemed watchmaker Rolex bowed a few new timepieces that will surely hit (including a few maritime-related watches in updated versions of the yachting GMT-Master II and pro-diving Deepsea models). But, overall, for this Geneva show, the lesser-known, more elegant, purely horological-appeal 1908 watch got a well-deserved moment in the sun.

First off, well, platinum. That precious metal just works so well with the 39mm 1908’s knurled bezel classicism, presenting an even finer capping off the package. But Rolex didn’t stop there. The remarkably gem-like ice-blue dial is the product of an exacting “grain de riz” guilloche process. Rolex rarely uses guilloche on its modern watches, but when they do, Wow! The color is eye-catching yet doesn’t take anything away from the 1908’s legibility. A newly developed Calibre 7140 rounds out this ode to fine horology. rolex.co

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Ete

For generations, the jewelry house of Van Cleef & Arpels has crafted exceptional animated, kinetic art moments as standalone tabletop pieces and within its elegant wristwatch offerings. Capturing the whimsical point in time when a soft summer breeze blows across an idyllic field, the new Brise d’Ete is like a relaxing spa experience on your wrist.

Encased in a lady-like 38mm gold case adorned with a blanket of diamonds, the discreet pusher at 8 o’clock starts the “breeze” and animates multiple elements of the dial (which carries a spectrum of fine gem and decoration components, from mother-of-pearl and exquisite enameling to tsavorite and spessartite garnets). Blades of grass and flowers sway in the wind, and the bejeweled butterflies flit about, finally landing on the retrograde outer index ring to indicate the precise time. Don’t forget: this special piece of animated wristwear is still a perfectly accurate watch, after all. The Lady Arpels Brize d’Ete will be available this fall, and the price is strictly on request. vancleefarpels.com

Chopard L.U.C. Quattro Spirit 25

The house of Chopard presented a raft of enticing new models in Geneva (including a new version of its popular racing-inspired Mille Miglia watch created in collaboration with racing legend Jackie Ickx, the Mille Miglia JX). But the sheer simple elegance and, well, “blackness” of this latest edition of the L.U.C. Quattro Spirit 25 drew a great deal of watch fan attention. For this year, the “jumping hours” timepiece is rendered in Chopard’s own ethical 18K white gold for the 40mm case with a rich, inky black grand feu enamel dial that just begs to tuck itself underneath the sleeve of a black-tie dinner jacket.

But, to perhaps create some creative cocktail chatter, this Quattro Spirit 25 (the “quattro” referring to the watch movement’s four barrels that provide 192 hours–that’s 8 days–of power reserve) features just a single elaborate white gold minute hand and deceptively simple 60-minute index ring to break up the rich black dial. At the top of each hour, the next hour numeral quickly jumps into place in the oversize aperture at 6 o’clock. A little wrist theater for your next soiree? chopard.com